Morning

Mornings are defined by the light. As the sun rises, it slowly fills the streets and alleyways, casting a warm glow on the Lioz stone buildings and drying the laundry hung out above.


Cafés open around 8am, so the day starts slow—usually with a walk to your first stop as the city wakes up. Kossie's Café became our regular spot. A small café with a bright blue door you can’t miss. We stopped in right after our long travel day and were welcomed by a friendly, bubbly team who immediately made us feel at home—and pointed us toward their favorite places in the city.


Across town, Etma Bakery is known for its pastries, egg dishes, and coffee. It’s the kind of place you return to. Started by a Ukrainian couple who now call Lisbon home, it was built to feel like a neighborhood gathering place—rooted in the idea that simple moments, like a good meal or conversation, matter most.

Afternoon

In Lisbon, the afternoon is for wandering. You move through tight alleyways, past tiled facades and orange blossom trees, shifting between shade and direct sun. The buildings hold the cool, but once you’re back in the light, you feel the heat quickly.


Plans stay loose. Pottery and ceramics are a big part of Portuguese craft, so we set out to find something to bring home. A Vida Portuguesa is a beautiful home goods store known for its decorative tiles, scented soaps, and pantry items, while AZUL is a smaller neighborhood spot filled with colorful ceramics—vases, espresso cups, and one-off pieces. Safe to say, we didn’t leave empty-handed.


For lunch, Sol e Pesca is a standout. This seafood spot is known for its tinned fish, and its interior looks more like a bait and tackle shop. With outdoor seating on small stools, it’s the perfect place to enjoy local cod or sardines in tomato with a Super Bock beer.


If you need a pick-me-up, QUEST is a reliable stop for coffee—and if you have room, their cinnamon rolls are worth it.

Cascais

By midday, the heat sets in. The city slows, and it’s a good time to set out and explore. A trip to Cascais offers a reset. Just outside Lisbon, it’s a coastal town with a different rhythm—open air, ocean views, and space to unwind. Once a fishing village, it’s now a polished seaside destination, known for its beaches, historic homes, and relaxed pace.


Our go-to lunch spot was Moules & Gin—and it’s exactly what it sounds like. Large bowls of mussels, steamed and served with different toppings, best paired with fries and a gin-based cocktail.

There are plenty of beaches to spend the day at. Praia da Rainha is smaller and tucked into a cove, while Praia da Ribeira is the main beach, set along the harbor with fishing boats and a long pier where locals jump into the water.

Evening

Evenings usually start with a stop at a wine bar. Red Nose Natural Wine Bar & Shop and Nata Wine Bar were two we kept coming back to—both casual, easy, and well-curated. Portugal has a long winemaking history, and while it’s known for Port, you’ll find a strong mix of regional wines—from crisp Vinho Verde to fuller-bodied reds from the Douro Valley—many made from native grape varieties you won’t see elsewhere.


Dinner happens late. Pomme Eatery and Boavista Social Club were highlights—both focused on seafood with a more experimental approach. Boavista also doubles as a record listening bar, making it an easy place to stay for a while.


From there, the best way home is on foot—through the streets and stairways, once the city has quieted down.

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